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Hypertufa
Trough Gardens
Tools Needed:
Wheelbarrow or
large tub; rubber gloves; water bucket; small shovel or trowel to mix,
plastic to line mod and cover floor if necessary; Portland cement;
perlite; peat moss; assorted containers to use as molds
Mix
Materials:
Several formulas can be used to create ”hypertufa” artificial stone
containers. Here are three.
1 part Black Gold Peat Moss, 2 parts Black Gold Perlite, 1 part Portland
cement (as used in our pre-mix)
1
part Black Gold Peat Moss, 1 part Black Gold Sand, 1 part Portland
Cement (Sandstone appearance)
1
part Black Gold Peat Moss, 3 parts Black Gold Perlite, 1 ˝ parts
Portland Cement ( more rocky apperance)
Concrete
tips: Wear rubber
gloves and avoid contact with eyes and skin. Mix gently to avoid
stirring up dust, which can be harmful to lungs. Avoid mixing on
windy days or in extremely hot or cold weather because the concrete will
set incorrectly. The ideal temperature is between 45 and 85
degrees.
Choose
a thick-sided container to use as a mold.
Cardboard
boxes, wicker baskets, pots, pans or anything bowl-shaped may be used to
capture the image that you want to create.
Line
the mold with thick plastic sheeting.
Trash/grocery
bags will work, however, turn the printed side away from the hypertufa
surface because the print will transfer to the concrete. At this
point, you may wish to use fern fronds, moss or leaves/needles to leave
their imprint on the outside of the container. Simply place them
in the location you prefer and add the completed mix.
In a wheelbarrow,
mix the dry ingredients thoroughly with your hands or shovel before
adding water.
Add water
gradually until it is of working consistency. A “cottage
cheese” texture works best. If the mixture is too dry it will be
weak – add a little more water; if it is too wet it will be hard to
mold – add cement
With
a shovel, fill the mold to about two-thirds full.
Shape by hand
packing the concrete tightly and pressing it up the sides so the walls
are about 2 inches thick. Add concrete by hand to complete the
trough.
Poke
a finger in the bottom to check depth.
Fill in the
hole if you want the pot to hold water. Leave it for drainage if
it is to be a planter.
Decorate
the edge or inside of the basin if you are making a water feature
container or a birdbath.
Press in river
rock, seashells, tile, pottery shards or other interesting objects as
desired. Try to finish within 15 minutes, before the concrete
begins to set.
Loosely
cover the pot with plastic and leave it on the mold, in a shaded spot,
for 2 to 3 days to cure and strengthen.
In hot weather spray it with water
periodically. At this point, the hypertufa will still be
shapeable. Carefully remove the trough from the mold.
Cleanout the drain hole(s). With a file, stiff wire brush, or
other tool, gently
“weather’ the sharp edges and add texture as desired for a
naturally-aged look. Cover the trough again, and allow to harden
for another 7-10 days. Wash the trough with white vinegar to
neutralize the cement and make it plant friendly.
Landscaping
Suggestions:
An “old”
growth of moss can be quickened on the surface of the finished container
by blending 1 part fresh, clean, green moss with 1 part milk-based
culture (yogurt, buttermilk, etc) to the consistency of a milkshake.
Paint or pour mixture onto your new “old” trough for a weathered
look.
Use Black
Gold All Purpose, All Organic or CocoBlend Potting Soil to achieve the
best results with the newest addition to decorate your yard.
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